Restaurant Reviews
Restaurants Reviews (494 Reviews)
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Tortilla Road: Tower Tacos stakes its claim a little farther up Cherokee Street It's far too easy to exaggerate the risks that new restaurants face. I'm as guilty as anyone. A few years ago in this column, in a bit of an... More>>
Published: September 03, 2008
Seriously Old School: Bartolino's hauls its venerable vibe to a new location The caesar salad at Bartolino's Osteria is an impressive sight: a wedge of romaine lettuce standing upright atop a large, discus-shaped crouton,... More>>
Published: August 27, 2008
Señor Circuit: Ian discovers Señor Pique's in a league of its own I liked Señor Pique even before I'd set foot in the place. This was a few years ago, when the Mexican restaurant shared an old house with... More>>
Published: August 20, 2008
Cold, Cold, Cold: Snow cone or snowball? Ian traverses the metro area to solve the mystery. "Welcome back, Ian."
Thanks, Doc. And thanks for fitting me in. I know it's been a while since our last session.
"Almost a year."
Right. Sorry... More>>
Published: August 13, 2008
Grill Marks: Ian turns to the West End Grill to pull us all out of the restaurant-scene doldrums This week marks the beginning of my third year reviewing restaurants for Riverfront Times, and as I look back over the past twelve months, I... More>>
Published: August 06, 2008
Hold the Moustache: Fumanchu, the prodigious Mike Johnson's latest offering, is all over the Asian map Is Mike Johnson the hardest-working man in the St. Louis restaurant business? Well, consider this: Fumanchu, the chef-restaurateur's new spot in... More>>
Published: July 30, 2008
Tacos de Kirkwood: Amigos Cantina brings the suburbs a little taste of Cherokee Street An array of multicolored shingles frames the entrance to Amigos Cantina, which opened this past spring in downtown Kirkwood. It's an attractive,... More>>
Published: July 23, 2008
Quack Addict: Let nothing come between Ian and his duck-fat frites The Shaved Duck fries its potatoes in duck fat. "As the good lord intended," the menu states — and I agree. Fat is the secret to flavor,... More>>
Published: July 16, 2008
Booyah!: Unassuming Onesto offers savory pizzas and entrées galore Onesto Pizza and Trattoria is a neighborhood restaurant, the only commercial structure at the intersection of Macklind Avenue and tree-shaded... More>>
Published: July 09, 2008
No Matter How U Slice It: The U provides much-needed sandwich sustenance to midtown — even in the wee hours God knows how I survived my first two years of college. And I don't mean surviving the usual existential doubts that befall English majors. You... More>>
Published: July 02, 2008
Take It From the Tip Top: Grooving to Night Ranger at a Serbian bar and grill in Soulard — priceless Djordje "George" Korac, owner of Tip Top Food & Spirits in Soulard, sits at a table on the restaurant's covered patio and lights a cigarette.... More>>
Published: June 25, 2008
Entrée View: Eleven Eleven Mississippi hasn't lost its looks, but has it lost its way? Once again we were scrambling to find a place to eat. Our intended destination was like something out of an Edward Hopper painting: The chef, in... More>>
Published: June 18, 2008
Tortilla Fats: Ian falls hard for a taqueria — again We were headed to dinner at a new Indian restaurant on Page Avenue. When we arrived, the restaurant was closed. Not closed for the evening... More>>
Published: June 11, 2008
Bet the Ranch: What were the odds? Lumière Place has a steak house! I wish more steak houses still let you choose your dinner from a big platter of raw meat. Not because this guarantees a better meal. Maybe, if... More>>
Published: June 04, 2008
Magnum Pi: Can Ian make peace with Provel? Solve for Π. A revelation: Provel isn't the reason I loathe St. Louis-style pizza. Or, I should say, Provel alone isn't the reason I loathe St. Louis-style... More>>
Published: May 28, 2008
Cheesesteak Quest: Can Ian find a decent Philly cheesesteak in St. Louis? Yes, he can! Could I find a reasonably authentic Philly cheesesteak in St. Louis? The task, inspired last summer by a reader, didn't seem impossible. For all... More>>
Published: May 21, 2008
Let's Get High: Gambling once again on Lumière Place, Ian looks up Cielo Cielo is several steps above the usual St. Louis restaurant. Literally: The restaurant is on the eighth floor of the new Four Seasons hotel... More>>
Published: May 14, 2008
The Pla Song Kruang Remains the Same: Basil Spice puts the newest Thai twist on South Grand As I ate lunch at Basil Spice, a slow, bittersweet melody played over the restaurant's speakers. I hummed along with the climactic passage: hum... More>>
Published: May 07, 2008
Do you miss good ol’ home cookin’? Revival wants to raise your spirits. Revival is an audacious name for any new restaurant, let alone one that's replacing an institution as beloved and influential as King Louie's.... More>>
Published: April 30, 2008
Lust for Crust: Katie's ain't your typical St. Louis pizza joint A neon sign hanging in the window of Katie's Pizzeria Café advertises Budweiser "N" pizza. This is, technically, true. You can order both... More>>
Published: April 23, 2008
Heat Rises: Pappy's Smokehouse elevates humble barbecue to ethereal heights Not even a minute after I first walked into Pappy's Smokehouse, the fantastic new midtown barbecue joint, I thought I was busted. I might as well... More>>
Published: April 16, 2008
Peak Performance Opening a good restaurant is miracle enough. I don't mean a four-star temple of haute cuisine or a bauble of glass and light the trend-humpers... More>>
Published: April 09, 2008
Want Boba with That?: Fast and good Vietnamese food at BBC Banh Mi, Boba Tea & Crêperie They are laughing at me. I'm sure of it. Two young women. College students, I think, home for spring break. They are looking at me — not... More>>
Published: April 02, 2008
Asia, Lumiere Place's Chinese/Thai/Vietnamese/Japanese chow parlor/sushi bar, is all over the map Asia, the continent, encompasses more than 50 countries and some 4 billion people. It stretches from Istanbul to Vladivostok, from the Arctic... More>>
Published: March 26, 2008
Building a Better Bistro: Chef Andy White proves there's life after Balaban's at Off the Vine How all of this compares to Balaban's in 1972, 1992 or even last year, I can't say. But I do know that when I return to the restaurant, it won't... More>>
Published: March 19, 2008
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